The Fizz(fiz) That Time Forgot

The Fizz(fiz) That Time Forgot

Sweet, bubbly(ˈbəb(ə)lē), and chemically(ˈkemikəl) colorful, gazoz quenched(kwenCH) Israel’s(ˈizrēəl,ˈizˌrāl) thirst(THərst) for much of the 20th century. Now, thanks to a new generation of chefs(SHef) and tinkerers, it’s being reimagined(ˌrē-iˈmajən) for a new generation.

By Devra Ferst

It’s a hot and sticky(ˈstikē) August day in Tel Aviv when I reach the Levinsky(li) Market. I’m lost, so I wander until I spot them: a cluster(ˈkləstər) of people carrying plastic(ˈplastik) glasses of pastel(paˈstel)-hued soda decorated(ˈdekəˌrāt) with small bouquets(bo͞o-,bōˈkā) of herbs((h)ərb). The stream of bubbles(ˈbəbəl) and flowers(ˈflou(-ə)r) originates(əˈrijəˌnāt) at a kiosk(ˈkēˌäsk) barely(ˈbe(ə)rlē) big enough to hold its two staffers(ˈstafər). Officially(əˈfiSHəlē), the shop is called Cafe(kaˈfā,kə-) Levinsky 41, but some refer(riˈfər) to it as “the Susita place(plās)” after the vintage(ˈvintij), Israeli-made white micro(ˈmīkrō)-truck(trək) that’s parked outside. Others just call it the shop owned by the crazy guy.

“People call it the way they remember it,” says owner Benny Briga, the crazy(ˈkrāzē) guy in question. Personally, I think of the kiosk in terms of its signature(-ˌCHo͝or,ˈsignəCHər) drink, which is what has brought me to the market: To me, it’s simply the gazoz shop.

Gazoz is, at its core, a mixture(ˈmiksCHər) of soda water and sweet fruit syrup(ˈsirəp,ˈsər-) that can come in artificial(ˌärtəˈfiSHəl) electric(iˈlektrik) colors in flavors(ˈflāvər) like raspberry(-b(ə)rē,ˈrazˌberē), orange, and grape(grāp). Almost a sparkling(ˈspärk(ə)liNG) bug juice, it’s a fizzy(ˈfizē) antidote(ˈantiˌdōt) to the country’s sweltering(ˈswelt(ə)riNG) summers. But a glass of gazoz is more than just thirst(THərst) quenching(kwenCH): It occupies(ˈäkyəˌpī) a deep place in the Israeli psyche(ˈsīkē). “For me as an Israeli, it [carries] so much memory,” says chef Einat Admony. Waxing(waks) nostalgic(näˈstaljik,nə-) and almost giddy(ˈgidē) at the mention of the name, she jokes: “It’s my next restaurant name.” Today, both personal and cultural(ˈkəlCHərəl) nostalgia(näˈstaljə,nə-) for the drink have driven a small group of gazoz makers to reinterpret(ˌrē-inˈtərprət) and revive(riˈvīv) it.

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https://www.tastecooking.com/fizz-time-forgot/